How To guide

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Vacuum Bagging a High-Performance Wing

 

Cut your spar and trial fit it to the cores. If it sticks up 'just a little bit', you'll have to sand the skins later and compromise strength. You might be planning to fly it with a 400 this season, but what about next year when you need a home for that new brushless motor? If the spar is recessed in the cores, then your glue has to do more of the work, not ideal.

Put the cores in the beds and sand the 'angel hair' off of them with a paper towel, no sandpaper here. Failure to do this will mean a poor bond and you know what that could mean!

 

Cut your fiberglass. Make sure that you cut pieces a least an inch larger than you need in all dimensions-most gets cut off of the TE anyway. This way you are not in trouble if you missed a little when you laid it out. Remember to get this right because you won't see the glass inside the wing later on.

Get all tools and supplies ready before you mix the glue. Don't start mixing the resin and hardener until you are doubly certain that you have EVERYTHING you need in arm's reach and that your bagger is set up, waiting for you to drop the wing in and seal it off. You'll also be needing a set of wax paper pieces that are slightly larger than the skins.

   

Get a timer and set it for the rated pot-life of your glue. You'll need a glue with a pot-life of 20-30 minutes. If you are new to your glue, mix up a trial batch and see how long is stays liquid in the cup. If you find that it cures too fast, there are two things that work to fight it. Try reducing the hardener content by 10%, or pour the glue onto a paper plate. Epoxy glues have an exothermic reaction when mixed, meaning that they give off heat. Heat causes the glue to cure more rapidly, so spreading out the glue on the paper plate keeps it cool. Refrigerating the resin and hardener probably won't work for you.. I've tried it on HTR-212 and West Systems and it got too thick to mix.

Mix about an ounce(one pump each in my case) of the glue and mix thoroughly. Keep your fingers (they are warm, remember?) away from the cup as best you can and you'll be rewarded with a longer working life. That extra minute might be valuable when you are stuffing the wing into the bag, all taped together and in place when you realize that the cores are upside-down in the beds!

Get a timer and set it for the rated pot-life of your glue. You'll need a glue with a pot-life of 20-30 minutes. If you are new to your glue, mix up a trial batch and see how long is stays liquid in the cup. If you find that it cures too fast, there are two things that work to fight it. Try reducing the hardener content by 10%, or pour the glue onto a paper plate. Epoxy glues have an exothermic reaction when mixed, meaning that they give off heat. Heat causes the glue to cure more rapidly, so spreading out the glue on the paper plate keeps it cool. Refrigerating the resin and hardener probably won't work for you.. I've tried it on HTR-212 and West Systems and it got too thick to mix.

Mix about an ounce(one pump each in my case) of the glue and mix thoroughly. Keep your fingers (they are warm, remember?) away from the cup as best you can and you'll be rewarded with a longer working life. That extra minute might be valuable when you are stuffing the wing into the bag, all taped together and in place when you realize that the cores are upside-down in the beds!

 

   
Pour a ¼" bead of glue along the center of the skins and start spreading it outward with a squeegee or credit card. Work diagonally. Remember that the clock is ticking, but get as much glue off as you can. Ideally, you want to be able to touch the skins and not leave a fingerprint. Believe me, it WILL stick! I have photo proof of this later on.
   
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